Life's Expedition Across Peninsular India (LEAP)

My introduction to the term 'Wanderlust' came courtesy of a Satyajit Ray film. This German word, combining "Wander" (to wander) and "Lust" (desire or pleasure), encapsulates the innate longing to explore, experience diverse cultures, and discover new places. Individuals with wanderlust are driven by insatiable curiosity and a passion for discovery, propelling them beyond their comfort zones into uncharted territories. This mindset celebrates freedom, spontaneity, and the exhilaration of novel experiences.

Three retirees – Hament, Vikas, and I – all north of sixty, had long harboured ambitions for similar audacious adventures, but our ideas remained dormant. That was until a luncheon meeting sparked the notion of driving along India's vast coastline, where dialects change every 50 kilometres. This time, our concept gained traction, and plans took shape.

Vikas's son generously lent us his new car. We coined the catchy acronym LEAP – Life's Expedition Across Peninsular India – and designed logos, T-shirts, caps, and stickers. With a budget in place and an itinerary set, we're ready to embark on February 15, 2025, aiming to complete our journey within 20-25 days.

For daily updates on our escapades, click this link to delve into the world of LEAP and its intrepid LEAPERS...

The LEAPers' attire

February 14, 2025, (Day 0) 

The day of the inception of our odyssey. Hament and I embarked on our journey to Pune at 10:30 am, navigating through Mumbai's unexpectedly tranquil roads. The afternoon sun greeted us as we arrived in Pune, where a sumptuous lunch awaited. As dusk descended, we adorned our trusty steed – a TATA Punch – with vibrant expedition stickers, transforming it into a symbol of our impending adventure.

The LEAPers leaping

Our steed is ready for the ride

February 15, 2025, Day 1: Pune to Guhagarh

As we departed Pune at 9:30 am, the urban landscape gave way to a dramatic tapestry of natural beauty. The Tamhini Ghat Road unwound before us, a serpentine path that revealed the breathtaking Mulshi Lake, nestled like a sapphire in the valley's heart. Our journey continued through undulating hills, coconut groves, and finally, the Arabian Sea's majestic expanse unfolded before our eyes.

The Mulshi Lake

Our first halt was the charming town of Guhagarh, its pristine beach a haven of tranquility. As day succumbed to dusk, we basked in the sublime beauty of a sunset that painted the sky with hues of gold and crimson, a perfect finale to our first day on the road.

A view of the coconut plantations alongside the Guhagarh beach

The vast expanse of the Guhagarh beach. Notice the pristine cleanliness.

Feb 15, 2025, goes into history as the tired sun retires on the horizon

February 16, 2025, Day 2: Guhagarh to Malvan.

As our expedition unfolded, a seamless division of labor emerged among us. Hament, our de facto expedition leader, doubled as official photographer, his trusty Canon SLR adorned with an arsenal of lenses, including a behemoth zoom lens that weighed a staggering 5 kg – a burden that threatened to wreak havoc on his neck and spine. Vikas, our logistical maestro, oversaw navigation and finances with meticulous precision. As for me, I had assumed the role of resident critic – a self-proclaimed guardian of checks and balances – ensuring that our adventure remained grounded in reality, even as our spirits soared.

 

    Our official photographer with his gear

   One of the innumerable creeks

As we navigated the undulating hills and woods of the Ratnagiri district, the Arabian Sea played a captivating game of hide-and-seek, its turquoise waters intermittently revealing themselves amidst the lush greenery. Our journey was punctuated by the occasional discovery of forsaken temples, their crumbling spires reaching for the sky like nature's own sculptures. These sacred sites, largely unattended, invited passersby to pause, offer prayers, and depart at their leisure. The landscape unfolded like a tapestry woven with vast mango orchards, their verdant canopies integrating seamlessly with the surrounding woods. The sweet aroma of Ratnagiri's renowned Hapus mangos, also known as Alphonsos, wafted through the air, teasing our senses. Pristine beaches, such as Palshet, Ganpatipule, Aarey, and Waarey, lay scattered along the coast, their unspoiled beauty a testament to the region's seclusion. Picturesque bridges spanned the numerous creeks, while the ruins of ancient forts, like sentinels of the past, stood as reminders of the Maratha kings and warriors who once ruled these lands. Our journey next took us to the Tavsal Ferry point, where, in a departure from the norm, we boarded a ferry to transport our vehicle across the creek, the absence of a bridge a poignant reminder of the region's untamed beauty. As we crossed the water, the imposing silhouettes of the Vijaygarh and Jaigarh forts stood guard on either side, their histories and secrets whispered on the wind.

 

                 The Jaigarh Fort

         At the Tavasal Ferry Point

           Inside the Jaigarh Fort

        A dilapidated Shiva Temple

Our leisurely drive, punctuated by frequent halts for photography, savoring local cuisine, and revelry, ultimately led to a late arrival in Malvan, our intended destination. The final stretch of the journey proved a challenging one, with darkness, rough terrain, and treacherous roads testing our resolve.

 

    Notice the Alphonso mangos in the orchard

The water reservoir (Bawri) atop the Jaigarh Fort

On one of the uninhabited beaches, not a footprint is visible.

As we reached the picturesque Talashil Beach, situated on a slender, finger-like peninsula (see map), the Arabian Sea's waves crashed against one shore while the tranquil backwaters lapped gently against the other. This unique confluence of waters makes Talashil an absolute paradise for scuba divers and snorkelers. Visitors would do well to allocate a day to explore this natural wonder. Alas, our tight schedule denied us that luxury.

Notice the strip of finger-land of the Talashil beach and the back-waters. I will come here again. 

Feb 17, 2025, Day 3. Malvan to Gokarna.

As I reminisce and recount our current odyssey, a fascinating coincidence comes to mind. The same trio of LEAPers, now greyer and wiser (???), had embarked on a thrilling adventure to Kashmir way back in 1983. Youthful and idealistic, with hearts afire and eyes aglow, we had set out to conquer the world. Forty-two years have since passed, yet fate has conspired to reunite us for this extraordinary expedition. Though our hair may have thinned and our steps slowed, our minds remain as impetuous and free-spirited as they were in our college days. I couldn't resist sharing a nostalgic "Then and Now" photographic tribute, a nod to the fleeting nature of time and the enduring power of friendship.

                                                The young LEAPers in 1983 - Srinagar.

                                            The LEAPers on the wrong side of the sixties - 2025

As the day unfolded, we traversed the borders of two states, Maharashtra and Goa, before finally coming to rest in the serene pilgrimage town of Gokarna, nestled in the heart of Karnataka. The town's name, derived from the Sanskrit words "Go" (cow) and "Karna" (ear), whispers tales of a revered legend – Lord Shiva's miraculous emergence from the ears of a cow. This sacred site is home to the world's oldest Shiva Linga, a testament to the town's profound spiritual significance. Gokarna's eclectic population is a fascinating blend of locals and expatriates, many of whom don the traditional Lungi, a humble yet essential attire for gaining entry into the revered Mahabaleshwar Temple.

                                    A shop selling Puja-wares on the beach road of Gokarna

                                                Sea bathing on a forlorn beach is fun

With a reserve day at our disposal, Gokarna's secrets will continue to unfold in our next installment. For now, we surrendered to the allure of this charming town, meandering through its narrow, winding streets, which ultimately surrendered to the majestic sweep of the Gokarna beach. The call of the sea proved irresistible, and we succumbed to its allure, indulging in a rejuvenating sea bath. Since embarking on our coastal odyssey, the turquoise waters of India's shoreline had cast a spell on us, beckoning us to return to their shores, and Gokarna's beach proved the perfect haven to surrender to this obsession.

Feb 18, 2025, Day 4. Exploring Gokarna.

Our plan had been to indulge in a well-deserved respite after three days of relentless driving. However, Gokarna's mesmerizing landscapes proved too great a temptation, and we found ourselves hooked to the town's charms, spending the entire day outdoors. Eschewing the comfort of our car, we opted for the freedom of scooters, which navigated the narrow, winding roads with ease, allowing us to park and explore the hidden gems of this coastal paradise. The thrill of adventure beckoned, and we answered, spending the day basking (or should I say ‘baking’) in the radiant sun, wandering through wooded trails to the enigmatic Yana caves, and conquering the rugged terrain of Om beach. As the day drew to a close, my weathered frame began to protest, every bone aching, every muscle taut, and every tendon strained – a small price to pay for the unforgettable experiences that Gokarna had bestowed upon us.

Woods of Yana Caves

As morning's golden light descended upon Gokarna, we made our way to the revered Mahabaleshwar temple, drawn by the mystique of its ancient heritage. Legend whispers that the temple's Atmalinga, a revered Shiv Linga, was placed by the demon king Ravana, a devout follower of Shiva, who had borne it from the sacred Mount Kailash, the abode of the divine. To pay homage to this sacred relic, we donned the traditional panche, a humble, unstitched loin cloth, and bared our chests, as is the custom. Though the sanctum sanctorum remained a photographic taboo, we managed to capture a distant glimpse of its splendor. For the devout Shaivaites, this temple represents an place of pilgrimage, a sacred site imbued with the essence of the divine.

The Sanctum Sanctorum of the Mahabaleshwar temple from a distance. Cameras are not allowed inside.

The LEAPers in traditional Puja attire before entering the Sanctum Sanctorum.

After paying our respects at the temple, we embarked on a 37-kilometer journey to the Yana caves, nestled deep within a lush forest. The drive was exhilarating, but the true adventure began as we meandered along the steep, winding trail to the caves. A 350-step ascent from the base of the cave tested our mettle, pushing our ageing bodies to their limits. Yet, fueled by an unyielding spirit, we persevered.

Exhausting ascent to Yana

From a scientific perspective, the caves are two colossal rock outcrops shrouded in a tapestry of foliage. Mythology, however, weaves a more fascinating tale. The larger hillock is revered as the Bhairaveshwara Shikhara, home to a self-manifested Linga within its cave temple. The smaller hillock is known as the Mohini Shikhara, its name echoing the legend of Vishnu's transformation into the enchantress Mohini.

 

Rocky outcrop of Yana – The Bhairabheswara Shikhara.

The Mohini Shikhara

As we rested at the base camp, a tea stall owner regaled us with the ancient tale of Bhasmasura, a demon who had pleased Shiva with his austerities. Shiva, in his infinite benevolence, granted Bhasmasura the power to annihilate anyone with a mere touch of his hand. But as the demon turned his newfound power against Shiva himself, Vishnu intervened, assuming the form of Mohini, the seductress. With cunning and charm, Mohini beguiled Bhasmasura, coaxing him into a fatal gesture – touching his own head, thereby sealing his own doom.

Inside the Yana Cave: Notice the dinosaur-like formation.

Natural light beams through the fissures inside the caves.

The Yana caves, for the protection of the environment, proudly enforce a stringent ban on plastic water bottles, safeguarding the pristine surroundings from litter. Yet, in a jarring paradox, the same management employs a draconian method of "cleaning" the park, setting ablaze dry leaves and refuse. This shortsighted practice unleashes a toxic maelstrom of air pollution, imperils the delicate green foliage, and courts the real danger of forest fires. Will the Karnataka Forest Department take heed of this egregious contradiction and prohibit the burning of dry leaves within the park, upholding the sacred trust of environmental protection?

Litter being burnt inside the Yana Park – simply unacceptable!

 Though our excursion to the Yana caves had left us weary, we couldn't resist the allure of the Mirjan Fort, a historic gem nestled along our return route to Gokarna. As we wandered through the fort's majestic ruins, we were struck by the grandeur of its Rajputana architecture. The crumbling watchtowers, standing sentinel at the edges of the fort, seemed to whisper tales of a bygone era, while the ancient water reservoirs and secret escape tunnels lay hidden, waiting to be unearthed, like secrets in a long-forgotten chronicle.

The Mirjan Fort.

The Mirjan Fort: Notice the dark rectangular hollow at the left bottom corner. It has a stairway into a tunnel (?)

A live root outcrop inside the fort resembles Lord Ganpati.

In the evening, well before sundown, we travelled to the enchanting Om Beach, its shoreline curving into the sacred symbol of Om in the Devanagri script. The rocky terrain, inhospitable to swimmers, only added to the beach's mystique. The breathtaking beauty of this hidden cove was nothing short of mesmerizing.

The Trinity on the Om

Views of the Om beach.

Tucked away in the farthest reaches of the rocky expanse, accessible only by a winding trek, lay the serene Shantidham café and homestay. This secluded gem, unknown to many, is undoubtedly one of Gokarna's most breathtaking spots. As the setting sun cast its golden glow upon the waves, we savored the tranquility of the moment, sipping beer on the café's cliffside perch. In this abode of peace, the only sounds were the whispers of the wind and the gentle lapping of the waves, for Shantidham is a sanctuary where music, revelry, and cacophony are gently discouraged, preserving the harmony of this natural haven.

   

The exciting trail to the Shantidham Café

Sunset from the Shantidham Café

 

Feb 19, 2025, Day 5. Gokarna – Mangalore

As we embarked on the next leg of our journey, we rejoined the NH66, a route that had been our steadfast companion since the outskirts of Pune, with brief detours to Guhagarh and Malvan. Now, as we ventured southward along the West Coast, the highway unfolded before us like a shimmering ribbon, its smooth expanse a testament to its reputation as one of India's finest thoroughfares. Notably, the toll stations were few and far between, allowing us to revel in the unbroken rhythm of the open road.

As we wandered along the coast, we chanced upon Murudeshwar, a quaint pilgrimage town dominated by an imposing idol of Lord Shiva, its towering presence visible from afar. I was informed that this majestic statue was the second tallest of its kind, a testament to the town's devotion to the Almighty. The temple complex, a masterwork of architectural splendor, boasts a twenty-storied Gopuram, its intricate carvings and motifs weaving a rich narrative of Puranic legends.

The temple's setting, nestled on a breathtaking beach, is nothing short of sublime. The deep blue waters of the Arabian Sea gently caress the pristine white sands, as if paying homage to the divine presence. The sheer magnificence of the temple complex is awe-inspiring, inviting the devout and the curious alike to partake in its splendor. For the adventurous, a high-speed elevator whisks visitors to the tower's summit, where the panoramic view of the surroundings unfolds like a canvas of breathtaking beauty.

The Tower (Gopuram) and the statue of Lord Shiva at Murudeshwara

Murudeshwara Beach, captured from atop the tower.

Lord Shiva, captured from the tower-top.

A motif on the tower – here, the scene of ‘Samudra Manthan’ (Churning of the sea for the nectar of immortality) is depicted.

 In this sacred realm, Lord Shiva is revered as Murudeshwar, the vanquisher of the formidable demon Murasura. The temple complex, a testament to the region's rich heritage, also houses the Bhukailasa cave museum, located at the base of the towering Shiva statue. Within its subterranean depths, the museum unfolds a captivating narrative, recounting the epic tale of Ravana's doomed endeavour to transport the revered Atmalinga, a self-created manifestation of Shiva, to his kingdom in Lanka. Through a vibrant array of larger-than-life figures, the museum brings to life the mythological drama, weaving a spell of enchantment around all who enter.

Legend has it that Queen Kaikesi, Ravana's devout mother, yearned to worship the revered Atmalinga, a symbol of Shiva's divine essence. To fulfill his mother's desire, Ravana embarked on a perilous journey to Kailasa, where he performed a severe penance, extolling the virtues of the Lord in fervent hymns. His devotion was so unwavering that he offered to sacrifice his ten heads, a testament to his unshakeable faith. Moved by Ravana's fervor, Lord Shiva relented, bestowing upon him the Atmalinga, said to grant its possessor immortality and invincibility.

However, the sage Narada, sensing Ravana's ulterior motives, sought the intervention of Lord Ganesha. Disguising himself as a young Brahmin boy, Ganesha tricked Ravana into relinquishing the Atmalinga, which he then placed on the earth. Ravana's attempts to retrieve it proved futile, and the Atmalinga remained rooted, becoming the revered Linga of Gokarna. Ravana, in a gesture of reverence, dubbed the Linga "Mahabala," or "one with great strength," a name that would eventually become synonymous with the majestic Mahabaleshwara temple.

While the entirety of this mythological tale can be unearthed with a mere click, I implore you to experience the magic firsthand. The temple complex, paired with the captivating cave museum, is a treasure trove of spiritual and cultural significance, awaiting your discovery.

Ravana performed severe penance to appease Lord Shiva for the Atmalingam

                                       

Ravana threatens to cut off all his heads when the Lord relents.

Narada reports the matter to Lord Ganesha

Lord Ganesha in the form of a small Brahmin boy, tricks Ravana into getting the Atmalingam

Lord Ganesha is about to place the Atmalingam, as Ravana is aghast

Ravana attempts in vain to dislodge the Atmalingam

As we departed from the sacred precincts of Murudeshwar, our journey continued along the NH66, which hugged the coastline, offering breathtaking vistas of the Arabian Sea. The winding highway traversed a series of picturesque bridges, spanning the tranquil creeks and backwaters that punctuated the shoreline. As we approached Udipi, we made a brief stop at the captivating Marvanthe beach, where a stunning corniche was taking shape. This nascent gem, still in the throes of construction, promised to blossom into a resplendent tourist haven within the next six months, beckoning travelers to revel in its beauty.

The corniche at Marvanthe beach

The LEAPers at the Marvanthe Beach

As dusk descended, we arrived in Mangalore, our destination for the day. Our tranquil retreat, a serene resort nestled beside the gentle Gurupura River and mere steps from the picturesque Tannir Bavi Beach, enveloped us in its soothing ambience. The three of us whiled away the evening, indulging in a leisurely game of cricket, our spirits buoyed by the impending start of the Champions Trophy. As the stars began to twinkle, we lounged in hammocks slung beneath the cooling canopy of coconut trees, the soft rustle of the leaves lulling us into a state of deep relaxation.

The Gurupura River from our resort in Mangalore

Night view of the Gurupura River

Feb 20, 2025, Day 6. Mangalore – Kannur

We rose before dawn to witness the sunrise at the confluence of the Netravati and Gurupura rivers with the sea. Instead, we found ourselves swept up in an impromptu game of beach cricket with a group of lively urchins. The joy of the game was a welcome distraction from the squalor that surrounded us.

As we bid farewell, one tiny voice asked, "Paisa denge?" – a poignant request that both amused and saddened us. The journey back was marked by a haunting sight: a majestic peacock pecking at putrid waste, a metaphor for the beauty and dignity lost to neglect.

Beach cricket with urchins

Paying fees for the game. When asked who the captain was, several hands popped up.

A peacock pecking its food from litter.

Our sole sojourn on the journey to Kannur was a brief yet captivating detour to the historic Bekal Fort, situated in the Kasaragod district of Kerala, mere moments after crossing the state border from Karnataka. Perched on a 40-acre promontory overlooking the Arabian Sea, this 16th-century stronghold has been meticulously preserved by the Archaeological Society of India, earning its reputation as one of the most immaculately maintained forts in the region. The fort's polygonal boundary wall, replete with strategically positioned watch stations and a central watchtower, stands as a testament to the ingenuity of its ancient architects. As we wandered along the fort's western ramparts, the breathtaking panorama of the Arabian Sea unfolded before us, with the endless expanse of Bekal Beach stretching towards the horizon. For the more adventurous, a precipitous descent from the fort leads to the rocky shoreline, where the turbulent sea crashes against the stones. A vigilant lifeguard stationed to prevent mishaps stood watch over this dramatic confluence of land and sea.

 The fort seemed to be a sanctuary for star-crossed lovers, its ancient stones bearing witness to tender whispers and sweet endearments. Even on this sweltering afternoon, couples sought refuge in the fort's secluded nooks and crannies, their love-filled murmurs carried away by the gentle breeze. What sets this fort apart from others we had visited, however, was its lush emerald interior – a meticulously manicured garden, teeming with vibrant foliage, which infused the surroundings with a sense of serenity and romance, making it an idyllic haven for love to blossom.

Entry to the Bekal Fort

The Arabian Sea from the fort

The approach to the sea from the Bekal fort. Public movement is limited to the circular watchtower at the end. Notice the rocks all around, making any sea descent very risky.

I, sitting with Prakash, the lifeguard on duty.

A view of the vast Bekal beach from the fort

Thorny love notes on the cactus leaves inside the fort

One of our party, through the internet, chanced upon a hidden eatery, the Riverside Café, near the fort, and was irresistibly drawn to the promise of a traditional Kerala Sadhya feast. This ancient culinary ritual, featuring an astonishing 27 items, is served on a humble banana leaf, elevating the simple to the sublime. Our quest for the café proved circuitous, as Google Maps led us astray, but our determination ultimately prevailed. The café, we discovered, was, in fact, the elegant coffee shop of the luxurious 5-star Taj Resort. As we indulged in the exquisite flavors of Kerala's traditional cuisine, we were enveloped by the resort's refined ambience. This serene oasis proved the perfect precursor to our onward journey to Kannur, a vibrant coastal city renowned as the spice capital of India.

The ‘Sadhya’ – traditional food spread consisting of 27 mouth-watering items.

Two LEAPers gorging on the ‘Sadhya’ while the third has a smoked salmon on his platter.

Feb 21, 2025, Day 7. Kannur – Kochi

In one of my previous blogs I sang a premature praise for the NH66. Alas, my enthusiasm was short-lived, for upon crossing into Kerala, the highway's charm gave way to chaos. The promised thoroughfare was now a battleground of construction, with traffic crawling through bottlenecks like a sluggish beast. The assured completion date of 2026 seems a distant mirage, and I remain skeptical, witnessing the glacial pace of progress.

In Kannur, a warm welcome awaited us, courtesy of Madam Girija, a close friend of one of our LEAPers' wives. She, along with her husband, graciously received us at the Folk Land Resort, a cozy KTDC-managed haven, bearing a generous bounty of savory snacks. Though our stay in Kannur was to be a brief, overnight sojourn, Madam Girija had thoughtfully crafted a concise yet memorable itinerary, ensuring our fleeting visit would be filled with warmth and wonder.

Muthappan and Thiruvappana deities at Parassini Muthappan Temple

Another majestic figure in a traditional Kathakali costume

As dawn broke, Madam Girija arrived at our doorstep, eager to escort us to a sacred temple, where we would bear witness to the enchanting morning Theyyam ritual. This ancient tradition, a mesmerizing blend of music, dance, and devotion, is performed daily at select temples, featuring elaborately costumed performers who embody the divine. Our destination was the revered Parassini Madappura Sree Muthappan Temple, a site of fascinating uniqueness. Here, dogs are revered as sacred vessels of the deity, and intricate sculptures and statues of canines adorn the temple grounds alongside their living counterparts. This temple is a beacon of inclusivity, for it is the sole sanctuary in Kerala that welcomes all, regardless of caste, creed, or faith, and permits men to retain their dignity, clad in their traditional attire. Furthermore, this compassionate haven provides solace to ailing and aged canine companions, offering refuge and care within its sacred precincts.

In keeping with India's quintessential paradox, the temple's sanctum sanctorum remained a camera-free zone, leaving our memories to serve as the sole repository of the experience.

As we bid farewell to Kannur, Girija Madam guided us to the Muzhappilangad Drive-in Beach, a sweeping expanse of sand that stretches across Asia's largest drive-in beach. Under the morning sun's blazing gaze, the beach lay deserted, its stillness rivaling the quietude of a midnight cemetery. Yet, the Arabian Sea's waves crashed against the shore with uncharacteristic ferocity, their size and strength a testament, perhaps, to the approaching confluence with the Bay of Bengal, notorious for its turbulent waters. The drive-in beach, with its boundless stretches of sand and sea, was a marvel. Amidst this natural splendor, a curious sight caught my eye: a statue emblazoned with the hammer, sickle, and star – an enduring symbol of Kerala's enduring communist legacy.

Muzhappilangad Drive-in Beach

Normally, waves are a function of wind, but not quite so here. Notice the huge breakers despite a calm day.

The hammer, sickle and star proudly and permanently anchored on the rocks as if to symbolize the enduring communist legacy in Kerala.

Our host at Kannur: Ms Girija and her husband, along with the LEAPers.

As we journeyed towards Kochi, fate dealt a cruel blow: one of our LEAPers fell ill. The doctor's verdict was unequivocal – his expedition must be abandoned; the ailing traveler must return home for urgent treatment. With heavy hearts, we bid a poignant farewell to our companion, who departed on the next available flight from Kozhikode to Mumbai. Our trio was now reduced to a duo, yet the setback only steeled our resolve. Undeterred, the two remaining LEAPers pressed on, their spirits unbroken, as they continued towards Kochi, the next milestone in their odyssey.

The journey to our homestay in Fort Kochi proved a gruelling test of endurance, as the woefully inadequate construction on NH66 stretched our patience to its limits. Fate, it seemed, was not on our side: we arrived too late to catch the ferry to Fort Kochi, its services having ceased for the day. Undeterred, we embarked on a circuitous detour, the evening shadows deepening around us as we finally arrived at our cosy homestay, weary but relieved, at the stroke of 9:30 pm.

Feb 22, 2025, Day 8. Exploring Kochi.

We lingered over a leisurely breakfast, savoring the morning's languid pace, before embarking on a meandering exploration of Fort Kochi's storied landmarks. Our first stop, the beach, proved a letdown – its beauty marred by the wastes of human neglect, just as any other cacophonous, crowded Indian shoreline.

In stark contrast, the iconic Chinese Net offered a thrilling experience, as we were invited to join the local fishermen in raising the massive fishing nets. The task, deceptively simple, proved a grueling test of strength and coordination, our novice efforts supplemented by the seasoned expertise of our new friends, who good-naturedly guided us through the exertion.

Raising the fishing net – an exhausting yet thrilling experience. Notice how one LEAPer is found grovelling on the floor.

A video of the laboured efforts, what we lack in strength, we make up in spirits. 

As we wandered through Jew Town, the crumbling facades of ancient houses, the venerable synagogue, and the labyrinthine alleyways transported us to a bygone era, the whispers of history echoing through the narrow streets. The antiquated shopping district, with its faded signs and worn storefronts, seemed frozen in time, a testament to the enduring legacy of this once-thriving community. Our stroll culminated in a sumptuous lunch at the charming Mandlay Hall, a boutique hotel that exuded warmth and elegance, its culinary delights a perfect accompaniment to the day's nostalgic wanderings.

 

Eatery at the Mandley Hall. The name ‘Aah’ inscribed in Hebrew or Malayalam (???)

Inside the eatery

 

 Nearby, the historic Mattancherry Palace, a 16th-century relic of the Portuguese era, stood as a testament to the region's rich cultural heritage.

 

 A view of the Matancherry Palace

Another view of the Matancherry Palace

  Our next destination was the resplendent Marine Drive, its serene waterside promenade offering a tranquil oasis amidst the bustle of Kochi.

 

The Scenic Marine Drive Ferry Stand

As dusk approached, we embarked on a sunset cruise, hoping to bask in the golden glow of Kochi's waterfront. The ferry chugged along, offering views of Wellington Island, Fort Kochi, and the bustling Dubai Ports shipyard. Yet, fate had other plans – a stubborn veil of smog shrouded the horizon, tempering our expectations and leaving us with a sense of unfulfilled promise. It seemed that, thus far, "God's own country" was not quite living up to its divine reputation.

 

The Dubai Port operates this shipyard in Kochi; the Gulf influence in Kerala is evident.

Feb 23, 2025, Day 9. Kochi – Kovalam

 We set off at dawn, eager to squeeze in a scenic detour to the breathtaking Varkala Cliff. As we veered onto the state highway, the drive transformed into a serene beauty, far removed from the chaos of NH66. The landscape unfolded like a canvas of sapphire and emerald, with a dazzling array of water bodies glinting like jewels to our left. And then, as if nature had orchestrated a grand symphony, the sunrise burst forth, its radiant hues painting the sky with vibrant colors, even as we journeyed inland, away from the sea's gentle caress.

 

As we drove along, a dazzling spectacle unfolded before our eyes: a tranquil water body teeming with a vibrant assembly of birds, a testament to the harmony of nature. Egrets, snowy and serene, dominated the flock, while a pair of flamboyant flamingos added a pop of color, their slender necks bent in unison as they foraged for sustenance. A few lone birds like glossy ibis, a white heron, and a whistling duck waddled along the water's edge, while sea gulls wheeled overhead, their raucous cries mingling with the sweet trills of the black-winged stilts. The air was alive with the joyous sounds of wings flapping, feathers rustling, and contented clucking, as these feathered friends shared a sumptuous feast of fish, their peaceful coexistence a heartwarming reminder of nature's simple yet profound beauty.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Birds on the water body on our way to Varkala Cliff

 

 Winding roads, fringed with lush greenery, led us to the majestic Varkala Cliff, its rugged facade dramatically overlooking the sun-drenched Varkala Beach. This natural wonder has been declared as a Geological Monument by the Geological Survey of India. Yet, the surroundings, once pristine, now wore a tattered cloak of neglect – ramshackle shanties and litter-strewn grounds marred the cliff's inherent majesty. From our lofty perch, we gazed out at the beach below, where thrill-seekers danced on the wind, their colorful paragliding and parasailing silks billowing in the breeze. But as the sun blazed down, relentless in its ferocity, we hesitated, our energy sapped by the heat. Besides, our odyssey had already afforded us a surfeit of beachside experiences, with many more waiting to be discovered along our journey.

 

 The Varkala Beach

We settled in for lunch at a rustic restaurant perched on the cliff's edge, the indigo sea stretching out before us like an endless canvas. The proprietor, it seemed, had diversified his interests, offering 4-5 cosy rooms to intrepid travellers willing to pay a premium – a staggering 18-20k per night, no less. We couldn't help but wonder who would pony up such a hefty sum for accommodations that, while boasting an enviable location, seemed otherwise unremarkable.

 Our curiosity sated, we continued on to Kovalam, arriving at 3 pm. Our home for the night was the Cocoon Villa, accessible only via a treacherously steep and winding downhill path – a thrilling, if not slightly hair-raising, descent into a tranquil oasis.

 

The Cocoon Villa

 

Our eagerness to explore the iconic Kovalam Beach was thwarted by Google Maps, which instead led us on a merry chase to the adjacent Lighthouse Beach. The approach was an adventure in itself, with narrow, steep roads that seemed to defy the laws of physics. We found ourselves at a dead-end, with no room to turn around – our driving skills were put to the test as we expertly reversed our way back down.

The beach, however, was a vision of serenity, its beauty matched only by the majestic lighthouse that stood sentinel over the shore. Lighthouses have an otherworldly allure, their storied pasts whispering tales of tumultuous seas and desperate voyages.

The Lighthouse – testimony to many an untold history

 

Alas, our visit was too late to allow us to climb the lighthouse, but we were treated to a dazzling display of sound and water at the adjacent fountain, which sprang to life after dusk. The choreographed spectacle of dancing water and vibrant colors, set to catchy Bollywood tunes, ended on a stirring note with the patriotic anthem "Maa Tujhe Salaam."

 Later, we managed to locate a Punjabi Dhaba – a rarity in Kerala – and gorged on North Indian khana after quite a while before driving down the precarious winding road to our cocoon…

 As we prepare to depart Kovalam the next morning, we can't help but feel a sense of detachment – our hearts still linger in the Ratnagiri district, where we discovered exquisite, unspoiled beaches that far surpassed the famed, yet surprisingly underwhelming, Kovalam Beach. 

Feb 24, 2025, Day 10. Kovalam – Kanyakumari

 As we bid farewell to Kovalam en route to Kanyakumari, we finally caught a glimpse of the renowned Kovalam Beach. While its vast expanse was undeniable, the beach itself was a letdown, marred by the ubiquitous litter and filth that plague many of India's populous beaches. One redeeming feature, however, was the well-organized parking facility.

Our next stop, the Shangumugham  Beach in Thiruvananthapuram, told a similar tale. Despite its reputation and the iconic giant Jalkanya mermaid sculpture, the beach's beauty was eclipsed by the surrounding squalor. Our anticipated rendezvous with the enchanting mermaid was reduced to a disappointing encounter, the setting far from the romantic idyll we had envisioned.

 

                                                             The Jalkanya (Mermaid) Statue

 

And then, a stirring surprise awaited us. Standing sentinel beside the enchanting Matsyakanya, or Mermaid, was a trusty steed from a bygone era – a vintage IAF MI8 helicopter. Its familiar lines and rugged charm unleashed a torrent of nostalgic memories, transporting us back to a time when these very choppers ferried us to and from the distant offshore outpost of the Bombay High Oil Field. It was on those flights, above the endless expanse of turquoise sea, that our friendship first took flight, forging an unbreakable bond that has endured through the years.

The LEAPers with the MI8 chopper.

Next, we ventured into the opulent Puthenmaliga Palace Museum, where we paid for entry tickets of Rs 100 each and a further Rs 500 for the camera permit. The latter came with a quirky caveat – a distinctive cap that had to be worn at all times while capturing memories within the palace walls. This ingenious mechanism ensured that camera-ticket holders were easily identifiable, a clever ploy to prevent unauthorized photography. As one of us donned a "camera cap," we couldn't help but chuckle at the palace's creative approach to crowd control.

 

Role of the official photographer switched inside the palace

Exterior of the Palace  with part of the Padmanabhaswamy temple’s view

As we stepped into the Palace, we were enveloped by an aura of majesty and splendor. The opulent tapestries, intricate artworks, and masterful paintings, encased in ornate frames that seemed to whisper tales of yore, transported us to a bygone era of regal grandeur. The royal furniture, resplendent in its ornateness, held court, with the pièce de resistance being a throne crafted from crystal, its facets glinting like a thousand diamonds in the soft light. The harmonious blend of history and art created a truly breathtaking experience, as if the very essence of the past had been distilled into this magnificent palace.

 

 Crystal Throne from Czechoslovakia

Ivory Throne

One of the roof patterns – each room had a unique pattern, which in itself is unique

Wooden Lamp Shade with intricate work

Carved Wooden Horses on the exterior facia. Trivia: The Palace is also known as Kuthirmailka meaning 'Mansion of horses' 

 

One of many magnificent paintings at the palace

As we bid farewell to "God's own Country," a tinge of disappointment lingered, born of lofty expectations that had been tempered by the harsh realities of a state struggling to balance tourism with preservation. Nature, in its infinite benevolence, had bestowed upon Kerala a boundless treasure of beauty, yet the senseless neglect of its people threatened to undermine this very legacy.

 

Shaking off the melancholy, we pressed on, and by afternoon, we found ourselves standing at the southernmost city in mainland India, bordered by the Laccadive Sea.

We embarked on a rickety ferry, its weathered hull a testament to years of neglect, as it chugged towards the revered Vivekananda Rock. The boat's surface was a verdant tapestry of algae and barnacles, its wooden slats creaking ominously in the untamed waves. As we ventured into the choppy sea, a frisson of trepidation ran through us, the boat's fragile form seeming to defy the fury of the elements. Yet, even as we clung to its worn railings, the invigorating sea spray danced across our skin, leaving us refreshed and alive. The unpredictable motion of the boat, the cries of seagulls wheeling overhead, and the endless expanse of turquoise water created an exhilarating symphony, one that left us breathless and yearning for more.

Ferry to get to and from Vivekananda Rock memorial

 

The Vivekananda Rock was a serene sanctuary, exuding an aura of profound peace and tranquility. The moment one sets foot on this sacred land, a sense of calm and serenity envelops them, transcending the boundaries of faith and doubt and touching the hearts of believers and non-believers alike.

 

The Vivekananda Rock Memorial

 

 

India’s first glass bridge over the sea connecting the Thiruvalluvar Statue with the Vivekananda Rock Memorial

 

The Thiruvalluvar Statue

 

As the sundown's fiery hues dissolved into a soft, golden twilight, we brought the day to a close, our spirits aglow with the lingering embers of the spectacle. We retreated to the Coral Resort, our haven for the night, which stood out as the crowning jewel among all the accommodations we had encountered on our journey thus far.

Feb 25, 2025, Day 11. Kanyakumari – Rameshwaram

The drive from Kanyakumari to Rameshwaram was remarkably smooth and pleasant. A timely bout of rain not only brought much-needed relief from the heat but also drew a vibrant assortment of birds to the puddles that formed on either side of the road. The unexpected avian spectacle was too captivating to resist, forcing us to pull over and capture the moment through a few cherished photographs.

Cormorant though a water bird is praying for rain to stop

A little Egret

The Sacred Lotus, adorned with delicate droplets of water that clung to its leaves like diamonds, an awe-inspiring sight.

Upon crossing the Pamban Bridge, we arrived in Rameshwaram and hastened to the Dhanushkodi Beach. The scenery was breathtaking, with turquoise waters and a pristine shoreline stretching as far as the eye could see. However, our admiration was marred by the ubiquitous litter scattered across the beach, a jarring contradiction to the area's supposed plastic-free status. The irony was stark, leaving us dismayed by the disconnect between aspiration and reality.

An array of boats on a starting line like sprinters waiting to take off.

 

And a lonesome boat beached at the Dhanushkodi

A woman selling tropical fruits on a precariously made-up table

Shaking off the melancholy, we pressed on, and by afternoon, we found ourselves standing at the confluence of the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal. The thrill of being at this geographic nexus sent shivers down our spines.

As we drove along the narrow strip of land, passing the pristine Dhanushkodi Beach and heading towards the legendary Rama Setu, a unique sense of thrill and detachment settled over us. Standing on this slender peninsula, disconnected from the Indian mainland, we felt as though we were driving into the horizon itself. To fully appreciate the breathtaking beauty of this location, a glance at the map is essential, revealing the remarkable geography of this captivating place.

The Land’s End

Patriotism at the Land’s End… I love my India

Here, at this sacred spot, one could witness the majestic sunrise over the Bay of Bengal's horizon and then, as the day succumbed to twilight, watch as it dipped into the Arabian Sea's azure waters, painting the sky with hues of gold and crimson.

The tired sun, ready to retire into the boat-dotted-sea of Rameshwaram

We had a delightful time at the beach, capturing the vibrant fishing boats through numerous photographs. On our return journey, we stopped by Kothandaramar(Vibhishan's Pattabhishek)Temple, but unfortunately, we were deterred from entering due to the overwhelming stench of urine and the litter of plastic and plastic bottles scattered all around. It's high time the Ministry of Tourism and Environment takes serious note of this issue and imposes substantial fines for littering. This egregious neglect must be addressed.

After sundown, there was nothing much to do, so we retired early, fortifying ourselves for Day 12.

 Feb 26, 2025, Day 12. Rameshwaram - Puducherry

We got up early to pay a visit to the revered Rameshwaram Temple while observing a full fast.

Providence smiled upon us, aligning our visit with the auspicious culmination of the Mahakumbh festivities. As we joined the winding queues, we eagerly awaited our turn to offer obeisance to the Lord within the sacred sanctum sanctorum. One of our group members had to procure a dhoti, a mandatory attire for entry, reminiscent of our similar experience at Gokarna.

The façade of the temple. Adorning the mandatory dhoti wrapped as a lungi

As we stepped into the temple's hallowed precincts, we were mesmerized by the dazzling array of intricate carvings and vibrant motifs that adorned the walls, pillars, and idols. Every nook and cranny seemed to whisper tales of a bygone era, as if the very stones had been infused with the essence of devotion and artistry. After paying our respects to the revered Lingam and completing the sacred parikrama, we reluctantly bid farewell to this architectural marvel and returned to our hotel, our hearts still resonating with the temple's sublime beauty.

Inside the temple. Notice the symmetrically aligned pillars and the ornate painting on the roof of the alleyway.

We had the exclusive privilege of being the sole occupants of the serene Boomerank Resort – its unconventional spelling with a 'k' adding to its quirky charm. As the resort's only guests, we were treated to a sumptuously personalized breakfast, where every dish was crafted with care, bursting with freshness and flavor.

Boomerank Resort  

Puducherry was our next port of call. En route, we made a brief stop at the iconic Pamban Bridge, where we captured some memorable photographs of the newly constructed  Railway Bridge, its majestic spans stretching across the deep blue waters.

 Tamil Nadu, renowned for its ancient temples, rich history, and past glories, is also home to engineering marvels that showcase its innovative spirit. The newly constructed Pamban Railway Bridge is a testament to this ingenuity. As India's first vertical lift railway bridge, it connects Rameshwaram to the mainland at Mandapam, exemplifying modern engineering prowess. With a wealth of information available online, we'll refrain from delving deeper into its details.

Pamban Bridge with Lift Span provision

Our drive to Puducherry via Trichy was a visual treat. The road unwound as a picturesque thoroughfare with minimal traffic – a rare delight in India. As we traversed the temple town of Trichy, we were thrilled to spot flocks of beautiful birds, their vibrant plumage adding splashes of color to the landscape.

Glossy Ibis

Upon arrival, we settled into a serene resort merely 200 meters from Auroville, reaching our haven by 5 pm. A leisurely stroll along the tranquil promenade beach was the perfect way to unwind, watching the sunset over the waves. As dusk fell, we retired early, feeling rejuvenated and at peace.

 

Feb 27, 2025, Day 13.  Exploring Auroville and  Puducherry

Having traversed from the West to the East Coast of Peninsular India, we exchanged the tranquil beaches of sunset for the invigorating shores of sunrise. Eager to greet the dawn, we rose early and made our way to the picturesque Promenade Beach. Although the view was breathtaking, fate didn't smile upon us. The looming clouds on the Eastern horizon, suspended above the Bay of Bengal, veiled the sunrise, denying us the spectacle we had eagerly anticipated. Undeterred, one of our group members seized the moment, choosing to meditate on the serene, deserted beach, embracing the local spirit – "while in Rome, be a Roman."

LEAPer Baba engaged in meditation as the sun appears in the Eastern horizon

The rising sun breaks free from the distant clouds in the Bay of Bengal

Following a hearty breakfast, we hired a cab to Auroville, a unique and experimental township founded in 1968 by Mirra Alfassa, "The Mother," a spiritual collaborator of Sri Aurobindo. The township's guiding principle is to foster a community where people from diverse backgrounds can live in peaceful coexistence, transcending creed, politics, and nationality. Auroville's ultimate aspiration is to realize human unity, embodying the vision of Sri Aurobindo, the Indian philosopher, yogi, and freedom fighter.

The serene Auroville

We explored the tranquil surroundings of Auroville on bicycles, discovering the unique charm of this intentional community. Engaging with the warm and welcoming Aurovillians, we gained insight into the township's fascinating history, philosophy, and aspirations. Although we didn't have prior permission to enter, we were able to admire the majestic Matrimandir from the outside, its golden dome glistening in the sunlight.

The Matrimandir from view point

 

A wealth of information about Auroville and the Matrimandir is readily available online, so we'll refrain from delving into details. However, we cannot stress enough that to truly experience the essence of this universal township, a personal visit is essential. For those deeply drawn to Auroville's ideals, there's even the possibility of becoming a permanent resident – but this privilege is reserved for those who successfully complete an internship, which involves a transformative journey of self-discovery, sacrifice, and selfless service.

After lunching at Auroville, we set off for Puducherry. As the evening unfolded, we strolled along the picturesque Promenade Beach, also known as Rock Beach, and visited the historic lighthouse. We also paid our respects at the beautiful Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple. The adjacent French Quarter, with its charming cottages and buildings uniformly painted white, is aptly nicknamed the White Town. The enduring legacy of Puducherry's French colonial past is evident in its distinctive architecture and monuments, which exude a unique blend of French and Indian influences.

The Old Light House at the promenade

A view of the White Town; notice the French-style balconies.

A street in Puducherry

 

A colorfully painted building sticking out like a sore thumb in the White Town

Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple

 

We meandered through the enchanting White Town, taking in its colonial charm, before deciding to dine at The Blueline, a restaurant that served up classic cocktails with a nostalgic flair, perfectly complementing the town's retro ambience.

Interior of the Blueline Restaurant

 

LEAPers at the Blueline restaurant

Feb 28, 2025, Day 14.  Puducherry – Nellore

 

We had an early start, as Swiggy was unable to deliver breakfast to our resort. We stopped en route at Boss Nursery, a convenient spot for a breakfast break. It was here that our first car issue arose: the infotainment display panel suddenly went blank. Fortunately, the engine was unaffected, and we were able to continue our journey without any major disruptions..

The Boss Nursery – a perfect ambience to chill

We arrived at Mahamallapuram, also known as Mahabalipuram, a historic town renowned for its stunning rock-cut temples and sculptures. Our first stop was the Tiger Caves, a magnificent rock-cut temple dedicated to the Hindu goddess Durga. This 7th-century wonder, attributed to the Pallava dynasty, features intricate carvings of tigers, lions, and other mythological creatures, showcasing the exceptional craftsmanship of ancient Indian artisans. As we explored the temple, we were struck by the remarkable blend of architecture and natural beauty, with the surrounding hills and lush vegetation adding to the site's serene ambiance. According to local legend, the Pandavas, the five brothers from the epic Mahabharata, are said to have taken refuge in these caves during their exile. This mythological connection adds a layer of mystique to the site, weaving together history, mythology, and natural beauty.

A rock-cut temple at Mahamallapuram

The Durga Temple

 

With our sightseeing pause, we chose to tackle the morning's car conundrum. Dusting off our rusty engineering skills, we embarked on a troubleshooting mission. After some meticulous sleuthing, we tracked down the culprit: a blown fuse lurking in the fuse box. With the precision of seasoned engineers, we replaced the offending fuse, and voilà! Our instrumentation panel roared back to life. It was a triumphant moment, proving that even if the LEAPers' bodies may have acquired a few battle scars with age, their knack for troubleshooting remains razor-sharp, honed by years of experience and ingenuity.

Car breakdown repair by the LEAPers in the middle of nowhere.

Once an engineer, always an engineer

We made a brief stop in Chennai, where we caught up with an old friend over lunch. Afterwards, we spent some time browsing the local sweet shops, stocking up on treats. With our sweet tooth satisfied, we set off for Nellore. The drive was, once again, a pleasure – smooth, hassle-free, and devoid of traffic jams. We arrived in Nellore by 4 pm and decided to do something we rarely do in bustling cities like Mumbai or Delhi: visit a shopping mall. We strolled through the mall, window-shopping and enjoying the air-conditioned respite, but ultimately left empty-handed, as is often the case. As the day drew to a close, we couldn't help but feel that it had been somewhat lacklustre compared to the exciting experiences we'd had so far.

March 1, 2025, Day 15.  Nellore – Vijaywada

We started our day after having a cup of special tea at a small stall under our hotel. This was Lemon Tea with mint & honey, different from the usual lemon tea available at other places – very rejuvenating.

 

En route to Vijayawada, we took a scenic detour to the charming Ramanapattam Beach and port via a narrow but well-maintained road. Although the port, still under construction, was difficult to approach due to the ongoing building activities, the beach more than made up for it. The shore was immaculately clean, with vibrant fishing activities adding to its charm. A beautifully crafted, colorful temple stood proudly on the beach, completing the picturesque scene.

A Temple at Sri Potti Sriramulu District

 

As we strolled along the beach, a sudden commotion caught our attention. We wandered over to investigate and were amazed to find a grinning fisherman proudly holding up an enormous, still-wiggling sting-ray. It is the same species which killed the Australian Naturalist Steve Irwin in 2006.  We couldn't resist the opportunity to get hands-on experience, and with the fisherman's nod, we gingerly took hold of the majestic creature. Its weight was staggering – we managed to hold on for a mere 10 seconds before relinquishing our grip. Then, we discovered a fishing dhow with its hull overflowing with an impressive haul of similar marine bounties.

Feel of the huge sting-ray

Fishing Activities at the Ramanapattanam Beach

Voyage awaits: Fishing boats stand ready, lined up in anticipation of a new journey, as the sea beckons.

Rocking in solitude: A single boat bobs peacefully on the tranquil waters of the Bay of Bengal.

The region's thriving aquaculture industry was evident, with prawn and shrimp farming being a dominant activity. As we explored the area, we came across numerous small, meticulously maintained ponds, each equipped with aerators that worked tirelessly to oxygenate the water. These artificial habitats were specifically designed to nurture shrimp roe and baby shrimps, providing them with a healthy environment to grow and mature.

Aerated aquaculture: Shrimp farming gets a boost from large-scale aeration systems, ensuring a healthy and thriving ecosystem.

As we wandered through the landscape, a stunning edifice caught our eye from a distance, its British-style architecture a testament to the region's colonial past. The building's elegance was irresistible, drawing us in like magnets. With the help of directions from friendly locals, we navigated the winding roads and finally reached the entrance. The structure was even more breathtaking up close – a masterpiece of design, with meticulously manicured surroundings that seemed to whisper secrets of a bygone era. But as we explored the premises, we discovered that this grand seminary now stood abandoned, a relic of a forgotten time. Yet, despite its abandonment, the locals had lovingly maintained the property, preserving its beauty for generations to come. We were intrigued by the story behind this enigmatic place, but alas, a language barrier and our tight schedule thwarted our attempts to unravel its mysteries.

Entrance to the abandoned seminary

The façade of the seminary and the Baptist Church (The Ramayapatnam Baptist Church)

Forgotten yet preserved: This abandoned Church and Seminary remain remarkably well-maintained, a testament to unknown caretakers who continue to tend to its beauty.

 

Soon after we bid farewell to the abandoned seminary, we stumbled upon another breathtaking waterbody, its serene waters dotted with vibrant lotus flowers and teeming with birdlife. The Andhra countryside, with its picturesque coastline, proved to be utterly enchanting, leaving an indelible mark on our journey.

A solitary duck enjoying its swim in the tranquil waters.

Nature's beauty abounds: The majestic white lotus flowers lining our route made for a visually stunning and thoroughly enjoyable drive.

 

En route to Vijayawada, we had the pleasure of savoring a delectable meal, expertly prepared and graciously served by a warm and charming hostess. Her hospitality was so genuine and endearing that it elevated the flavors of the food, making each bite a true delight. We indulged liberally, unable to resist the temptation of the delicious spread, and ultimately ended up overeating, but with no regrets!

The delectable food spread in the Andhra countryside.

 

As we traversed the scenic Gunthur district, we made a captivating stop at the ancient Undavalli Temple, a marvel of engineering and artistry carved directly into the rocky terrain. This 7th-century wonder, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, unfolded its secrets before us, revealing intricate carvings and sculptures that adorned the temple's façade. The irresistible attraction, however, was the majestic idol of the reclining Lord Vishnu, meticulously chiseled from a single block of gleaming black rock. The sheer scale, craftsmanship, and spiritual aura surrounding this iconic deity left us spellbound, our senses heightened as we absorbed the temple's timeless beauty.

 

The rock-cut Udavalli Temple

A symbol of cosmic slumber: The stunning Reclining Vishnu, adorned with intricate carvings, lies serenely within the temple's hallowed precincts.

The gorgeous statues of the sages

Exploring the spick and span Udavalli Caves

As we continued our journey, we crossed the iconic Prakasam Barrage, which majestically stretches across the charming River Krishna. This engineering marvel not only showcases impressive architectural design but also plays a vital role in harnessing the river's water for irrigation, supporting the fertile lands and communities that thrive along its banks.

The Prakasam Barrage

Sunset from the Prakasam Barrage

We arrived in Vijayawada in the evening, and after a fulfilling day of exploration, we opted to unwind and retire early at our cozy homestay. The meticulously maintained accommodations provided the perfect haven for a restful night's sleep, allowing us to recharge for the adventures that lay ahead.

 March 2, 2025, Day 16.  Vijaywada - Hyderabad

Yesterday, with a tinge of sadness, we bade a poignant farewell to the Coastal India, leaving behind the soothing serenades of the sea and reached Vijaywada – which is a good 100 km from the coastline.

For what felt like an eternity, the majestic azure sea had been our constant companion, never failing to enchant us with its breathtaking beauty, its waves caressing the shores in a rhythmic symphony that had become an integral part of our LEAP journey. As we ventured inland, we could still hear the sea's melancholic whispers, a bittersweet reminder of the unforgettable memories we had crafted along its sun-kissed shores.

As we traversed across the centre of our vast country, our journey took a new trajectory, leading us to the fabled city of the Nizams – Hyderabad.

For a change of pace, we stopped by Starbucks for a leisurely breakfast. As we drove inland, the urban landscape gradually unfolded before us, its characteristic rhythms and vibes slowly replacing the relaxed, seaside atmosphere to which we had grown accustomed.

We took a brief detour to visit the revered Paritala Anjaneya Hanuman Temple, home to the world's second-tallest Hanuman idol, standing at an impressive 135 feet. This colossal statue, adorned with intricate carvings and vibrant hues, towered above us, exuding an aura of serenity and spiritual grandeur. As we explored the temple grounds, we were struck by the meticulous attention to detail and the neat maintenance of the premises, creating a peaceful ambiance that fostered a sense of devotion and contemplation.

The Hanuman Statue – standing tall at 135 feet.

 We then embarked on a straightforward drive along NH65, bound for Hyderabad.  Again, a surprise awaited us with a large flock of birds waiting for us in a water body along the highway.

 

Escape to nature: This breathtaking scene of serene waterbodies and abundant birdlife is a balm to the souls of city dwellers, offering a glimpse of untouched beauty.

 

The journey was remarkably smooth, but as the urban sprawl unfolded before us, the telltale signs of chaos and congestion signaled our arrival in this vibrant city. With a packed agenda, we devoted the day to reconnecting with dear friends and relatives, cherishing the warmth and hospitality that only comes with visiting loved ones.

As the evening unfolded, we indulged in a quintessential Hyderabadi culinary experience – the legendary Paradise Biryani. The generous serving, however, proved to be a challenge, as one enormous portion overwhelmed our appetites, leaving us delightfully satiated but unable to finish the indulgent treat.

Savoring flavors and friendship: A delicious serving of world-famous Hyderabadi Biryani makes catching up with a friend an unforgettable experience.

 

Our home away from home was a lovely hotel nestled near the breathtaking Durgam Cheruvu Lake, a stunning oasis in the heart of the city. The lake's picturesque surroundings were further enhanced by a beautifully lit wire-rope bridge, its elegant suspension design and vibrant lights creating a mesmerizing spectacle after dusk. As night fell, we were treated to a captivating musical fountain show where choreographed water jets danced in perfect harmony with the music, casting a spell of enchantment over the audience. For those seeking a leisurely stroll, the long walkway encircling the lake offered a serene and well-maintained path, inviting visitors to take in the tranquil beauty of the surroundings and enjoy the cool breeze rippling across the water.

The magnificent wire-rope bridge over the Durgam Chevuru Lake.

The dancing fountain show

 

After a leisurely stroll around the lake, we retreated to our hotel to rest and recharge, preparing ourselves for the next exciting leg of our journey, which would take us to the historic city of Solapur.

March 3, 2025, Day 17.  Hyderabad – Solapur

 

As our expedition was drawing to a triumphant close, we savored the penultimate day with relish. We began with a sumptuous, personalized breakfast, indulging in a feast fit for royalty - a delightful perk of being the sole residents. With our senses revitalized and our spirits high, we set off once more onto the NH65, bound for Solapur and the final leg of our thrilling adventure.

Ready for personalized Breakfast

  

As we re-entered Karnataka on our journey to Maharashtra, our first stop was at the majestic Bidar Fort, a testament to the region's rich history. This gargantuan fort, beautifully preserved and maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), stood tall, its imposing walls and intricate architecture a reminder of the bygone era of the Bahmani Sultanate. We spent hours exploring the fort's labyrinthine passages and palaces and the Shola Kumbha (16-pillared) mosque, unraveling the secrets of a bygone age.

Entry to the majestic Bidar Fort

The Shola Kumbh (Sixteen-pillared) mosque – inside the fort

A stone bull inside the fort

The lonesome langoor on the imposing façade of Bidar Fort stands testament to its resilience, having withstood numerous sieges and assaults throughout its storied past.

 

Our next stop was the revered Gurudwara Sri Nanak Jhira Sahib ji in Bidar, a sacred site commemorating the visit of Guru Nanak Dev Ji, the founder of Sikhism. We humbly paid our respects and offered prayers within the serene precincts of the gurdwara. Afterwards, we partook in the traditional langar, savoring the delicious, community-cooked meal that embodied the spirit of sewa and equality.

Main Gurudwara Sahib

Offering obeisance at the Amrit Kund

 

As we crossed back into Maharashtra from Karnataka, we made a stop at the historic Naldurg Fort, nestled in the Osmanabad District. Despite our high expectations, fueled by tales of its grandeur, the fort turned out to be a monumental letdown. The stark contrast in maintenance was evident, as the fort's grounds were marred by overgrown shrubs and litter, a far cry from the meticulous preservation we had witnessed at other sites maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). The neglect was palpable, and it seemed that the Government of Maharashtra's efforts had fallen short.

The Naldurg Fort

 

Amidst the crumbling grandeur of the fort, one tranquil oasis stood out as a serene reprieve – a shimmering water body that cooled the eyes and calmed the spirit, its gentle ripples a soothing balm against the scorching heat that enveloped us."

Thereafter, we embarked on the NH65 once more, enjoying a seamless and comfortable ride to Solapur. The evening was filled with celebration as we marked Vikas's special day with cake-cutting to start and then indulging in a delightful Indian-style noodle dish that added a savory touch to the joyous occasion.

Happy birthday to our master route planner and program extraordinaire! Your meticulous planning and flawless execution have been instrumental in our journey's success. Here's to another year of adventure, strategy, and triumph!

 March 4, 2025, Day 18.  Solapur – Pune (Base Camp)

We'd reached the ultimate leg of our LEAP journey. Time had flown by, and the vibrant memories of our adventure swirled in our minds like a kaleidoscope. We recalled the breathtaking temples, the majestic sea, the rolling hills of the Western Ghats, and the southernmost tip of our incredible country. In a surprising coincidence, we found ourselves seated at table number 18 on the 18th day of our expedition, enjoying a leisurely breakfast as we reflected on our journey so far.

 

Table 18 for the LEAPers on Day 18? Coincidence? We think not! It was as if fate itself had reserved this table to mark the grand finale of our epic journey, a serendipitous flourish to our 18-day adventure.

En route to Pune, we were delighted to find ourselves surrounded by numerous water bodies, reminiscent of our coastal Indian journey. As we had experienced earlier, these water bodies proved to be a haven for birdlife, offering us a thrilling glimpse of various avian species.

As we journeyed on, we reluctantly bypassed the Bhimashankar Wildlife Sanctuary, its exploration requiring a full day's dedication, which our tight schedule couldn't accommodate.

Instead, we opted for a detour to the intriguing Shetphal Village in the Sholapur District, famously known as the 'Snake Village.' Our curiosity was piqued by online accounts of a unique community residing here, who reverently coexisted with snakes, including venomous species like vipers, kraits, and cobras. Reportedly, every household in this village provided a sacred space for these reptiles. Eager to witness this extraordinary phenomenon firsthand, we were, however, met with disappointment. The villagers seemed oblivious to the snake reverence we'd read about, or perhaps they chose to keep their sacred traditions private, shielding them from outsiders.

Though our visit to the Snake Village left us disappointed, our spirits were soon lifted as we arrived at the Bhigwan Bird Sanctuary. This haven proved to be a gem, more than compensating for the day's earlier letdowns. The sanctuary's breathtaking landscape, dotted with wetlands and lush vegetation, was truly a sight to behold. We embarked on a serene boat ride, gliding across the tranquil waters, and were rewarded with incredibly close encounters with rare and majestic bird species. At times, we found ourselves mere 50 meters away from these avian wonders, their vibrant plumage and graceful movements leaving us spellbound and grateful for this unforgettable experience.

Our boat for exploring the Bird Sanctuary

A Pond Heron sitting in our boat, undeterred by the presence of humans

Openbill storks lazing in the sun

 

Cormorants- getting ready to dive deep for food

 

Greater Flamingos

Avian electricians at work

 

Black Headed Gulls

 

With a sense of satisfaction, yet a tinge of longing, we arrived in Pune in the evening, our hearts filled with a mix of joy and melancholy. The past 18 days had been a whirlwind adventure, with our group of senior LEAPers covering an impressive distance of 4454 kilometers, spanning seven states and one union territory. As we traversed the western coastline, southern tip, eastern coastline, and finally, central India, we were struck by the incredible diversity of language, culture, and cuisine that our great nation has to offer. This journey had been a true odyssey, one that broadened our perspectives, deepened our connections, and left us with memories to cherish a lifetime.

The path we traversed

As we concluded our epic journey, we were left awestruck by the sheer vastness and diversity of our magnificent country and the warmth of its incredible people. Our hearts were filled with unforgettable memories, and our spirits were ignited with a sense of wonder. And so, as we bring down the curtain on this adventure, we can't help but feel that this is merely the beginning of a thrilling new chapter. God willing, the LEAPers will soon re-LEAP into action, armed with cameras, curiosity, and an insatiable thirst for exploration. Until then, we bid you adieu, but not goodbye – for the roads beckon, and the next great adventure awaits!

 

This was just the beginning – keep smiling, keep LEAPing